Making the 1880s Bodice

This was the big one that I put aside most of my time to do as there were quite a few parts to it and also because it was surposed to be finished to a neater standerd than the other toiles. I also did a section of this dress in striped fabric as to get used to working with it.

The bodice started simply with a back piece, front piece and 2 side pieces however the pleates at the back made lining up the center back much harder as you needed extra fabric past the center back to create the pleate. I used Janet Arnold's drawn pattern a lot for this bodice (and the skirt) to get the right shapes, fit and ratios as I wanted it to be neater and better than the toiles I have made during this project.

I cut it perfectly and ensured it really fitted well before I re-cut it in two layers of calico leaving generious seam allowences however when I put it together then put it back on the stand it really didn't fit which was incredibly frusrating. Ithought it may be because the corset had slipped round a little and was off center however this made no difference. In the end I ended up re-cutting the two fronts again with much more seam allowence which fitted really well for a seam up the front then I relized it was a front opening bodice and I needed to create a fastening down it. I chose eyelets and lacing as I could then pull the bodice in to fit better but this meant the front pannel really creased up so I had to place an extra dart on each side at the front that would be hidden by the blouse anyway but I felt I should have backing behind the blouse (also when I was at work experience I was told to carry the bodice on and round to the center front seam as it made life easier later on).

I was very releeved when I laced the front up and found it fitted. I placed the longest bones I could find in haberdashery down the front where most support was required and this really made the bodice straighten up and fit better..................

I would put buttons down the front and I would have marked this out if I had not run out of time...........