Wednesday, 1 June 2011
Wednesday, 18 May 2011
Evaluation cont.
Just a quick note to say I did not finish the 1880s toile sadly as I ran out of time. I still had the sleeve to draft, the collar to do and the rest of the blouse. I am also slightly behind on blogging it but I shall compleat this over the next couple of days.
I am very upset and slightly confused about not finishing everything as I have worked really hard throughout the project and have been in uni pretty much every day from 9.30-7.30 plus working at home. I really need to speed up.
I am very upset and slightly confused about not finishing everything as I have worked really hard throughout the project and have been in uni pretty much every day from 9.30-7.30 plus working at home. I really need to speed up.
Tuesday, 17 May 2011
Making the 1830s Collar
As you can see I left this pretty late into the project as when I was first cutting the 1830s bodice I hadn't done much cutting before and felt I wanted to leave the collar (which looked very complex) till later when I was more comfortable and confident with working on the stand. I also wannted to uderstande Janet Arnold's patterns more before I tried to scale this piece up. However when it came to actually cutting and putting it together it just seemed to work and fit. I had a little help from Dexter as to figure out which bit went to which bit and where but when I just started to cut and move the fabric around it all fitted together.
I stuffed the sleeve with tissue paper almost to its maximum size because if I made it into a real garment I would ensure the sleeve stayed out this big by adding more support to it therefore I needed to cut the collar to the size the sleeve should be at its biggest so if I did transefer it to top fabric the collar would be the correct size.
Dexter suggested I draw it out to the scale that was in Janet Arnold but as I did this I gained a better understanding of which bit fitted where so was able to extend and change pieces as to fit my bodice. Using the back and front panel patterns was also useful when tring to get the shape of the neckline.
I had problems with where the gathers met the rest of the fabric as it kept rooshing and creating pleates where I didn't want any so to fix it I would put a couple of gathers in the top of the shoulder seam but this didn't work very well and also didn't match the pattern I was working from so in the end the best thing was to get rid of as much excess seam allowence around the area by binding on edge and hand sewing the gathers to it. One thing I missed was the fact the gathered edge should have had a bit of seam allowence to turn over so it was a neat edge before I hand sew it to the the binding. Actually, the gathers and binding are surposed to be pipped together however I did not read this until I had sewn it as was in a hurry to get it done before the deadline, yet again its more about the cut rather than anything else and I feel the collar looks good.
The shape of the bottom of the collar looked really good before I bagged it out but with a bit of pressing it should look neat and tidy again. I feel the collar really compleates the bodice and makes it very classic of the 1830s which is why I chose this toile.
Where the collar kept catching -
Shape of front of the collar -
Shape of back of the collar -
I stuffed the sleeve with tissue paper almost to its maximum size because if I made it into a real garment I would ensure the sleeve stayed out this big by adding more support to it therefore I needed to cut the collar to the size the sleeve should be at its biggest so if I did transefer it to top fabric the collar would be the correct size.
Dexter suggested I draw it out to the scale that was in Janet Arnold but as I did this I gained a better understanding of which bit fitted where so was able to extend and change pieces as to fit my bodice. Using the back and front panel patterns was also useful when tring to get the shape of the neckline.
I had problems with where the gathers met the rest of the fabric as it kept rooshing and creating pleates where I didn't want any so to fix it I would put a couple of gathers in the top of the shoulder seam but this didn't work very well and also didn't match the pattern I was working from so in the end the best thing was to get rid of as much excess seam allowence around the area by binding on edge and hand sewing the gathers to it. One thing I missed was the fact the gathered edge should have had a bit of seam allowence to turn over so it was a neat edge before I hand sew it to the the binding. Actually, the gathers and binding are surposed to be pipped together however I did not read this until I had sewn it as was in a hurry to get it done before the deadline, yet again its more about the cut rather than anything else and I feel the collar looks good.
The shape of the bottom of the collar looked really good before I bagged it out but with a bit of pressing it should look neat and tidy again. I feel the collar really compleates the bodice and makes it very classic of the 1830s which is why I chose this toile.
Where the collar kept catching -
Shape of front of the collar -
Shape of back of the collar -
Sunday, 15 May 2011
What the work plan turned out to be.
Week 1
Mon 7th March -Fri 11th March
Reserched into clothing from 1899-1910
Created time plan.
9th - MODIP session (10am-12.30pm)
10th - Winchester trip (11am-3pm)
Week 2
Mon 14th March - Fri 18th March
Continued reserch into 19th Century dresss.
Did learning agreement.
Finale decision on what to make.
Week 3
Mon 21st March - Fri 25th March
Started Janet Arnold 1830-6 dinner dress (half bodice).
Started Norah Waugh 1850s summer dress (half whole dress cut on the stand).
24th - deadline for learning agreement.
Week 4
Mon 28th March - Fri 1st April
Work experience with Naomi Isaacs (London).
POP essay.
28th - Candide performance.
Week 5
Mon 4th April - Fri 8th April
Work experience with Naomi Isaacs (London).
POP essay.
Easter Break
Sat 9th April - Tues 26th April
POP essay.
Week 6
Tues 26th April - Fri 29th April
JA 1850s dress.
Week 7
Mon 2nd May - Fri 6th May
JA 1850s dress.
JA 1888 day dress (whole dress cut on the stand).
Week 8
Mon 9th May - Fri 13th May
JA 1888 day dress (finish cutting on stand finishing's)
JA 1830s dinner dress collar.
9th - POP hand-in
Week 9
Mon 16th May - Wed 18th May -
Norah Waugh 1878 afternoon dress (whole bodice cut on stand).
Mon 7th March -Fri 11th March
Reserched into clothing from 1899-1910
Created time plan.
9th - MODIP session (10am-12.30pm)
10th - Winchester trip (11am-3pm)
Week 2
Mon 14th March - Fri 18th March
Continued reserch into 19th Century dresss.
Did learning agreement.
Finale decision on what to make.
Week 3
Mon 21st March - Fri 25th March
Started Janet Arnold 1830-6 dinner dress (half bodice).
Started Norah Waugh 1850s summer dress (half whole dress cut on the stand).
24th - deadline for learning agreement.
Week 4
Mon 28th March - Fri 1st April
Work experience with Naomi Isaacs (London).
POP essay.
28th - Candide performance.
Week 5
Mon 4th April - Fri 8th April
Work experience with Naomi Isaacs (London).
POP essay.
Easter Break
Sat 9th April - Tues 26th April
POP essay.
Week 6
Tues 26th April - Fri 29th April
JA 1850s dress.
Week 7
Mon 2nd May - Fri 6th May
JA 1850s dress.
JA 1888 day dress (whole dress cut on the stand).
Week 8
Mon 9th May - Fri 13th May
JA 1888 day dress (finish cutting on stand finishing's)
JA 1830s dinner dress collar.
9th - POP hand-in
Week 9
Mon 16th May - Wed 18th May -
Norah Waugh 1878 afternoon dress (whole bodice cut on stand).
Friday, 13 May 2011
Making the 1870s Bodice
Thankfully I no longer had to do the whole of this dress before the deadline. I had a tutorial with Adele and we came to the conclusion it was important for me to attempt the princess line however I do not have to do all the drapeing, sleeve, etc. because I am really really running out of time (see tutorial blog). So I chose to work from Norah Waugh again for this one as then I have 2 toiles from each book. This one was an Afternoon Dress from 1878.
This was a nice toile to end on as I really had to manipulate the fabric and create very sharp darts to gain the right silhouette. It was very enjoyable to smooth the fabric out over the curves of the the manniquin so the garment hugged the body tightly. The only problem with this was the fact that the petticoat underneath was too small for the manniquin and therefore pulled itself in a little under the torso of the manniquin however there was no other option and it gave the exsact shape disired at the back so I just had to remember to allowe a little give at the front of the dress.
I did make a couple of small mistakes on this toile due to lack of sleep now the project is drawing to a close. These included missing a whole pannel from the back when first cutting which wasted more time, not sewing stright enough on all the seams therefore not haveing quite the clear cut tailored effect all over however I do not have time to re sew everything but I know for next time to be more careful and the pattern on paper is correct, and cutting in too far up on the back seam when the eyelets needed to go lower however this is all now blogged so if I ever make the garment again I will be able to look back and see what to change.
The mistake at the bottom of the back opening -
The shoulder seams also proved a little difficult as I did not mark them clear enough so I was not sure how far across to sew however this was easily fixed on the stand so they were in the correct place and sat nicely.
The bodice in the process of being cut on the stand (front and then back) -
This was a nice toile to end on as I really had to manipulate the fabric and create very sharp darts to gain the right silhouette. It was very enjoyable to smooth the fabric out over the curves of the the manniquin so the garment hugged the body tightly. The only problem with this was the fact that the petticoat underneath was too small for the manniquin and therefore pulled itself in a little under the torso of the manniquin however there was no other option and it gave the exsact shape disired at the back so I just had to remember to allowe a little give at the front of the dress.
I did make a couple of small mistakes on this toile due to lack of sleep now the project is drawing to a close. These included missing a whole pannel from the back when first cutting which wasted more time, not sewing stright enough on all the seams therefore not haveing quite the clear cut tailored effect all over however I do not have time to re sew everything but I know for next time to be more careful and the pattern on paper is correct, and cutting in too far up on the back seam when the eyelets needed to go lower however this is all now blogged so if I ever make the garment again I will be able to look back and see what to change.
The mistake at the bottom of the back opening -
The shoulder seams also proved a little difficult as I did not mark them clear enough so I was not sure how far across to sew however this was easily fixed on the stand so they were in the correct place and sat nicely.
The bodice in the process of being cut on the stand (front and then back) -
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