Thankfully I no longer had to do the whole of this dress before the deadline. I had a tutorial with Adele and we came to the conclusion it was important for me to attempt the princess line however I do not have to do all the drapeing, sleeve, etc. because I am really really running out of time (see tutorial blog). So I chose to work from Norah Waugh again for this one as then I have 2 toiles from each book. This one was an Afternoon Dress from 1878.
This was a nice toile to end on as I really had to manipulate the fabric and create very sharp darts to gain the right silhouette. It was very enjoyable to smooth the fabric out over the curves of the the manniquin so the garment hugged the body tightly. The only problem with this was the fact that the petticoat underneath was too small for the manniquin and therefore pulled itself in a little under the torso of the manniquin however there was no other option and it gave the exsact shape disired at the back so I just had to remember to allowe a little give at the front of the dress.
I did make a couple of small mistakes on this toile due to lack of sleep now the project is drawing to a close. These included missing a whole pannel from the back when first cutting which wasted more time, not sewing stright enough on all the seams therefore not haveing quite the clear cut tailored effect all over however I do not have time to re sew everything but I know for next time to be more careful and the pattern on paper is correct, and cutting in too far up on the back seam when the eyelets needed to go lower however this is all now blogged so if I ever make the garment again I will be able to look back and see what to change.
The mistake at the bottom of the back opening -
The shoulder seams also proved a little difficult as I did not mark them clear enough so I was not sure how far across to sew however this was easily fixed on the stand so they were in the correct place and sat nicely.
The bodice in the process of being cut on the stand (front and then back) -
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