Making the 1830s Bodice

I started cutting on the stand at the begining of the 19th Century using a Janet Arnold pattern of a 1830-6 Dinner Dress. I wanted to do something very classic of the period and I found this one and thought it was perfect. I am only cutting the bodice, sleeve and collar to get myself started before Easter. I am only going to consentrate on the cut of the bodice therefore do not need to do any of the embrodery on the front and collar or any frills however I did decide to show a littl of this in the end with a bit of lace trim on the collar as to get an idea of scale.

The bodice itself was pretty simple to cut with just 3 pieces that had to lay perfectly flat to the bodice. The concept of cutting on the stand came back quickly when I started placeing the calico on the stand (regular weight calico as doesn't need to drape or hang, and I can try and save money on this project). I was actually able to cut the bodicce, transefer it to pattern paper and re-cut it all in one dayw which has given me a boost at the begining of the project and I am confident I will be able to get the other toiles made in time.

I had a few issues of where to place the side seam on the bodice as the Janet Arnold picture does not make it clear so therefore I had to refer to my historical reserch to gain and insight as to where the seam usally sat in the 1830s. I concluded it sat just back from where the modern day side seam sits however still hidden under the arm.

The hardest part of the bodice was the neckline and where is should lie on the should. As I am working on a manniquin with no arms it was very difficult keeping the bodice just on the edge of the should where it looks like it sits on the picuture. At first I just brought the neckline in a but more than I thought it should be as to hold it on however when I re-cut it I felt it changed the shape too much an moved too much away from the era so I cut it right to the edge of the shoulder and used more and stroner pins the hold it in place.

I must note that on the Janet Arnold picture it looks as if there are two pannels on the front of the bodice however it is a dart that must be manipulated into the correct shape however this turned out to be realitivly simple as it created itself over the body shape anyway.

Front of bodice seen below -

Back of bodice seen below -